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7/30/2009 Thursday, The Packing.
We met at Leslie’s house in Anacortes where we loaded kayaks and gear onto Rob’s van. Rob’s van was spacious with lots of room for gear, kayaks and at least 4 paddlers. Liza was working late and was not able to make it till the next morning before our departure time. After loading we ate pizza that Rob brought.
7/31/2009 Friday, The Drive to Port McNeill, BC
At 6:00 am James dropped me back off at Leslie’s house. Rob was helping Liza load her kayak and gear. Once we were loaded up. We were ready to go to the Anacortes ferry terminal to take the 7:30 am ferry to Sidney, BC.
On the ferry over we went over last minute trip planning. We had plans to spend a week exploring Quatsino Sound to the Brooks Peninsula, but the weather forecast reported gale warnings on the west coast of Vancouver Island north of the Brooks Peninsula. Our back up plan was to paddle the Broughton Group out of Telegraph Cove on the Northeast coast. We knew our options, but we decided to listen to the weather forecast later that evening and next morning before making our final decision.
From the Sidney ferry we took Highway 1 north along the east coast of Vancouver Island. At Nanaimo Highway 1 became Highway 19. We took Highway 19 all the way to Port McNeill, BC. We were able to spread out in Rob’s Van. Liza decided to get some sleep and was able to find a comfy space on the floor.
In order to keep our trip costs down, we crammed into a small room at the Dalewood motel. We drew straws for the rooms only 2 beds. Rob and I drew short straws and ended up sleeping on the floor.
Once settled we went to the adjacent restaurant called the Dry Dock Restaurant. I had the chicken cordon blue and a glass of red wine. It was very good.
After dinner we listened to the forecast. There was a computer in the lobby that had internet access. We cross referenced the weather forecast from a BC weather website to the marine weather radio. Neither source reported a favorable weather forecast. We decided to check the forecast again in morning before we went. We really wanted to go to the west coast, but it looked like we were going to explore the Broughton Group instead.
8/1/2009 Saturday, Telegraph Cove to Red Point.
Approximate distance paddled: 8 nautical miles.
I awoke at 6:00 am before everyone else. I quietly got dressed, grabbed my charts of the Broughton Group, pencils, and dividers and I went down to the Dry Dock Restaurant. I grabbed a table and asked the waitress for a coffee. I told her I was waiting for friends and I might have breakfast later. I apologized for only ordering coffee and taking up space, but she seemed okay with that.
I did not have time to mark up charts of the Broughton Group, prior to leave for Vancouver Island. Since it was a back up trip, it was not a priority for me. As I sipped my coffee, I marked out north south lines on my charts, mark potential campsites and calculated distance from and to campsites and areas of interested.
I was about ready to leave, but as I gathered my things, Leslie came in. We decided to wait till Rob and Liza were up before we decided on breakfast. Leslie and I killed a little time walking around town.
After reviewing the weather forecast and considering options we decided to head to Telegraph Cove. We arrived at Telegraph Cove at about 12:00 pm. We talked with a kayak tour company there to get more information about the area.
After having lunch, loading our kayaks and parking Rob’s Van, we launched at 4:15 pm onto the first part of our adventure. I thought, it was a bit of a late launch.
About 10 minutes into our paddle out of Telegraph Cove and into Johnstone Strait, we spotted Orca whales to the northeast of us. We stopped paddling and rafted up in order not to interfere with the Orca pod. We got out our cameras. We either were drifting into the Orca Pod or they were coming closer to us. I readied my camera, but when I turned the camera on, I got a warning flashing on the camera display to clean my memory card. What! I was able to take photos before we launched. Never the less, I was boiling from the inside with excitement as the Orcas swam closer. Fortunately everyone else had a camera and was able to get pictures. I watched with the enthusiasm of a child as Orcas swam around us. I looked down and saw the white saddle patch of an Orca just a feet below our kayaks. I have lived in the Pacific Northwest for over 3 years and I have always wanted to see an Orca whale in the wild, but I never had until now. My wish was granted several times over. Sadly the population of these beautiful creatures is diminishing. Even if it is the only time I see an Orca whale, I hope they don’t disappear from this beautiful world.
We crossed Johnstone Strait heading east toward Hansen Island. A 15 knot northwest wind played havoc with my kayak as it stern quartered across my left stern. My kayak wanted to turn into the wind as I fought to keep it straight on an easterly course. The rest of my paddling companions had no troubles. I was at a disadvantage since I do not have a skeg to help keep my kayak straight. I tried to make up for not having skeg by focusing on proper paddling technique, which now may have a flaw. Rob, noticed that my kayak dip with each paddle stroke I took. I never was aware of it and it is seldom an issue.
We looked at various camping options along Hansen Island before heading across Blackney Passage to Parsen Island. We explored a couple coves on Parson Island for possible camping. The was no really suitable camping there. We paddled across Parson Bay to Red Point. I was feeling tired from the previous fight with the wind. I was paddling a little slower and not feeling my usual energetic self.
Red point had a nice beach, but little room for 4 tents. Rob found a nice spot on the beach. Leslie chose a spot in the trees. Inside the tree canopy, there was lots of room. Liza found a nice area high up on a bluff. At first I thought it was too far to haul camping gear, but after I went to check it out, I decided to camp high up.
Though we made our made our own meals, It was decided we each make a desert for all to share. Liza’s brought cake she made before we left on the trip. It was really good.
That night after I was in my tent, I could hear the spout of a whale. It sounded like it was close to our beach.
8/2/2009 Sunday, Red Point to Mound Island.
Approximate distance paddled: 10 nautical miles.
I awoke at 6:00 am. I sipped coffee as while I greeted the morning. Eventually Liza, Leslie and then Rob awoke.
We launched around 12:00 pm. We saw a harbor seal as we paddled toward the southwest side of Swanson Island. Near the northwest side of Swanson Island we saw an Orca in the distance. We stopped for lunch in a cove on the northeast side of Swanson Island. There was no beach, but we found a suitable rock to park on and eat lunch.
As we paddled around Swanson Island and then toward Crease Island, we noticed how interesting the rock features were here. In some places it was like sculpted sandstone.
We saw Rhinoceros Auklets as we paddled toward Crease Island.
On Crease Island we explored a beach for a possible campsite. It looked nice from the water, but since we were in a Spring tide cycle we figured most of the beach would be inundated from higher high tide that was to follow later that evening. So we paddled on. We ended up at a great campsite on Mound Island. Ironically it was not far from our previous campsite.
8/3/2009 Monday, Village Island.
Approximate distance paddled: 10 nautical miles.
I awoke early as always. I had my coffee and listened to the stillness of the morning. The tide was out and there was not even a ripple in the water. The sky was clear, but clouds moved in not much later that morning.
Liza woke up shortly after I did, but I was ready to explore. I took my camera and hiked up a hill. The trail petered out into a tangle of fallen trees and rotting lumber across the canopy floor. I continued to make my way through over fallen logs and branches. Suddenly I was greeted by a spastic squirrel. It was cute and it looked like he was curious about my presence. It came close but as soon as I lifted my camera to photograph it, it would dart off for cover. I kept my camera in front of my eye. I was able to get a few photos before it darted off again for good.
Since we had a nice camping spot, we decided to spend 2 days here. It was nice to go paddle and explore without having to carry all our gear and supplies. My kayak was so much easier to paddle now. We launched on a day paddle from our campsite at around 10:00 am and headed toward the ruins of a 1st Nation Village on Village Island.
We paddled from the south west side of Mound Island across Indian Channel between Larsen and Alder Island. We paddled clockwise around Alder Island to the south side of Ralph Island and along Ralph Island’s east side. I found a small beach in shallow cove. I saw a sign with small print. I had to land and get out of my kayak to read it. I did not mind, as I was curious and desiring to explore. The sign said this was a burial spot and not to trespass. Good enough for me. I returned to my kayak and paddled back to my friends to inform them of my discovery.
From Ralph Island we paddled across to Cecil Islet. We rounded the south and east part of Cecil Islet and headed toward Village Island. We landed on a long white shell beach. It looked like this part of the island was a large shell mitten.
We pulled the kayaks up the beach and hiked up the bluff. The ruins were covered in Thimble Berry thickets. There were narrow paths through the thickets. We had to be careful not to snag our clothing or expensive dry suits on the thorns of the thimble berry thickets. We helped ourselves to the thimble berries as we hiked through.
Near the beach entrance was a cedar arch and the remnants of a building. We pushed south through the thickets and came to an opening where there lay a fallen totem pull. This was Liza’s and my first totem pole we had ever seen.
After we took many photos of the ancient artifact, we made our way back and to another trial leading in the other direction where we started. We hiked through more thimble berry thickets and then into the forest canopy. Just inside the forest canopy we found an old building that used to be a school house.
The path lead past an old dock and then back into the wood, then back to a rocky ledge by the water. I scrambled around the rocky ledge to find a path back to the beach where our kayaks were. I probed on and my friends followed. I was concerned that I would lead everyone to a dead end and would have to turn around, but I felt adventurous and knew I could push on. Leslie and Liza turned back while Rob and I scrambled around the rocks. Rob was a mountain climber, so this was no big deal to him. There were times it looked like we could go no further, but we would find a way around. At one point we had to scramble low into the water and under low cedar branches. I had to be careful not to get my Nikon DSLR camera wet. Rob and I made it back to the beach where Leslie and Liza were already there to greet us.
We ate a late lunch and watched yachties stumble from their zodiacs. Yachties was a phrase that Rob used for the people that came here in their expensive Yachts. They used Zodiacs to travel from their yachts to the islands. It was a sunny warm day and we stripped out of our dry suits and extra layers of clothing to stay cool and soak up some sun. It was quite a contrast from the cool and cloudy morning paddle we had.
As Rob, Liza and Leslie rested on the beach; I explored more and took pictures.
By 3:00 pm we were ready to launch. Since it was cool that morning, I wore fleece under my dry suit for warmth. Now it was sunny and warm and I had regretted not bringing lighter clothing along. I tried to paddle with just a sports bra under my dry suit. That proved to be uncomfortable as the dry suit fabric would chafe my exposed skin. Everyone else had better clothing options to adapt to the changes in temperatures and weather conditions. Leslie and Rob had Bibs that could be worn with a dry top for cooler weather or by themselves with a light top for warmer weather. They also went with paddle pants and hydro skin tops for the warmer weather. I definitely needed better gear, but since I am not making any money at the moment that is out of the question.
Once we crossed Ellot Passage, we landed on a rocky cove on the northeast side of Pearl Island. I undid my Dry suit and put on my fleece. I decided it was best to be a little hot than to be chafed raw.
From Pearl Island we paddled along the north side of Maud Island, then down the west side of Maud Island between Maud and Fern Islands, Across Village Passage to the Carey Group, across Indian Channel back to our camp site on Mound Island.
Lessoned Learned: Bring more clothing for changes in conditions.
It was my turn to make desert. I cheated and tried to make instant chocolate pudding, but the pudding would not quit thicken. So we had chocolate shakes
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That evening we listened on the weather radio to the weather forecast. The weather conditions were improving on the northwest coast of Vancouver Island. We had a great stay there in the Broughton Group, but we were all ready to move on to the west coast. The decision was unanimous; we were leaving the Broughton Group in the morning for Brooks Bay.
8/4/2009 Tuesday, Back to Telegraph Cove and then to west coast.
Approximate distance paddled: 8 nautical miles.
I awoke at 5:30 am. Made coffee and decided to drink it while I packed up my camping gear in my tent. That was a mistake. I got caught up in backing and I did not pay attention where I set my coffee. I did not even notice that I spilled it right away, as I had my wool sock feet in it for the whole time I was kneeled over stuffing my dry bags.
Once I noticed the mess. I changed socks and mopped up the spilled coffee.
Lesson Learned: do not multitask in tent while drinking coffee.
On the water by 8:30 am. Again, I felt slow as I pulled through the water with a heavy gear laden kayak. We paddled against a little current as we paddle out of Whitebeach Passage. I paddled over and past a couple in a tandem kayak. They looked like they were tread milling against the current. I went over to make sure they were okay and possibly help them with their forward stroke. I asked how they were doing. They smiled, and replied, “We are doing great.” I thought, Okay then. They are making a little progress as they lily dipped their paddles in perfect synchronicity. If they just took full forward stroke they would power through that current. I am concerned how people may respond to my advice. I am afraid that people might get defensive. Then again it could be a reflection of how I might have once reacted to advice. Earlier in my paddling career, I knew it all. Now, I realize how much more there is to learn.
The water across Blackfish Sound was flat. As we headed west across the sound, aiming for a particular land formation on the north side of Hansen Island, we heard the puff of a whale spout. Our heads turned toward the direction of the sound and we all saw the plum of misty water in the distance. Again and again it happened. They were humpback whales. There were at least two of them. At one point they came close enough to us we could make out their grey backside as they rose and dove.
We also saw various birds including more Rhinoceros Auklets.
Lesson Learned: bring Bird and Algae guide books.
We landed back at the Telegraph Cove Boat Ramp at about 12:00 pm. We quickly loaded our kayaks and gear, took showers, restocked on water and got what tasted like the best burgers ever. We left Telegraph Cove at 1:30 pm
The trip over to the west coast was down logging roads. Rob called ahead to make sure that there were no logging trucks using the roads we were traveling on. Just before Port Alice we stopped at the logging company office. Rob went in to ask questions. We were originally going to put in at Klaskino Inlet and paddle to Heater Point. But we learned that Side Bay was more accessible. It also allowed us to camp before heading out. There was no place to camp at the put in at Klaskino Inlet. We would have to load our kayaks and paddle to Heater Point, possibly at night in rough conditions.
Three hours later we arrived at Side Bay. We discussed paddling to Heater Point for our first camping spot. We were all grateful that we were in agreement to camp at Side Bay and then head out in the morning.
There was a thick fog over Side Bay and the Pacific Waters. The Beach at Side Bay was wide with lots of room. It made sense to spend the night here before we went out.
It was a wonderful sensation to be on the west coast. I felt enclosed on the east side of Vancouver Island. Here it was amazing. The rocky features, mountains and the water were so much more dramatic. I was grateful to have been graced by the whales on the east coast, but I felt so alive here.
After we found a place to erect our tents, we went for a walk along the series of beaches that lined Side Bay. There were interesting rock features, that resembled plates being pushed up from the earth’s crust. We witnessed Sea Otters, tide pools and dramatic coastline. I scrambled over rocks, whenever I got the chance, inspecting plants that grew from the crevices of rock.
8/5/2009 Wednesday, Side Bay to Aster Bay.
Approximate distance paddled: 12 nautical miles.
I was up early at 5:45 am. We had an early launch at 9:30 am. The air temperature was warm. It was overcast. Seas were calm. Winds were calm. The Brooks Peninsula laid before us, about 10 nautical miles to the south. The clouds over the Brooks Peninsula looked so ominous.
We landed on the beach at Heater Point for a pee break. It was a nice beach and we considered it for our last campsite before heading back.
We saw many Sea Otters, Common Murres, Double Crested Cormorants and a whale in the distance.
We landed on a beach along Ambrosia Bay. We had lunch there and explored. We were going to camp here, but Rob Liza and Leslie felt the beach would be too exposed to the wind and weather. We talked with a guy who was part of a group that had been coming out here for the past18 years. They were responsible for setting up tables, benches, shelter, and other beach structures made from driftwood and flotsam.
After lunch we paddled north east to Aster Bay and found a nice spot in a protected spot at the mouth of a river in Cape Cook Lagoon.
There was a bench, table and hanging structure where we landed and decided to camp. After we set up our tents, Rob and I made our additions to the shelter. This was going to be our home for the next two days.
Leslie made desert. We dubbed them Brooks Bay Bear Bombs. They were very good.
I was going to make a fire but everyone retired early.
8/6/2009 Thursday, Klaskish Inlet.
Approximate distance paddled: 11 nautical miles.
We launched at 11:10 am. Our goal was to paddle and explore Klaskish Inlet and Klaskish River. Brooks Bay was calm. We hugged the rocks looking for marine critters. We found Ghost, Thimble, Moon and Lions Mane Jellyfish, Pointy Nose Kelp Crabs and snails. We even found the wreckage of a boat.
At the river basin we found a place to stop, pee and have lunch. The sun came out and it was peaceful and calm, but then I noticed the water ripple and the breeze pick up from the west. We noticed bubbles of air from the shoreline of peat along a tributary. We hypothesized how the bubbles were cause. Then I summarized that it was trapped air under a shelf from low tide.
We padded up the Klaskish River, exploring. There was a log nursery sticking out from the river. Liza and I inspected the various plants that grew from it.
We came to a log jam. We could not go any further. We decided this was a good spot to refill on fresh water. We got out our water filters and empty bladders and proceeded to fill our bladders with filtered water from the Klaskish River. After we were done, I climbed up the log jam to get a view further up river.
We paddled back. It was a little windy, but once we were out of the Klaskish Inlet it was calm again.
We headed to the Donald Islets.
At one of the Islets Rob harvested mussels. While he harvested mussels, I collected some bull whip kelp. We were back at Aster Bay at 6:00 pm. Leslie and Rob took time to surf the small swells coming into Aster Bay. I took a moment to explore the trail head across the river to the north east of our campsite. There is supposed to be a network of trials that connect the beaches of the Brooks Peninsula.
Rob cooked up the mussels in a tasty broth. I sautéd my kelp in olive oil and garlic and made a side of brown rice. Rob and I devoured the mussels. I made the mistake of examining the first mussel I was about to eat. They were not very attractive and can be discouraging to eat. I got over it and ate my share.
8/7/2009 Friday, To Heater Point.
Approximate distance paddled: 6 nautical miles.
We had a 9:00 am launch. There was a gentle swell rolling in from the Pacific Ocean. It would make for some nice rock gardening. From Aster Bay we paddled to Orchard Point, then across Klaskish Inlet. As we crossed, we saw many sea otters. Rob and I nosed the bows of our kayaks as close as possible to the back side of a rock as we rode up and down with the swell.
After our crossing, we landed on a nice pocket beach near Sapir Point. The sun was breaking through the clouds. We found a waterfall. Leslie, Liza and I decided it was a good time to shower of the salt and wash our hair. I put a fresh battery in my Olympus camera. I was shooting a lot of video on this trip.
After a lunch break we continued our way weaving through the rock gardens that lined the shore. We found narrow opening between rocks where we would ride through on an incoming swell. It was fun. We explored the labyrinth of rock structures that lined the shore. Sometimes we ended up at a dead end and had to back paddle back out.
I had decided to explore one very narrow opening in a large rock structure. I went through the narrow crevice as my friends waited outside. It opened up slightly too about 4 feet across and dead ended at about 30 feet from the entrance. Then suddenly the swells started to come in. The swells would get compressed and pushed upwards, surging me forward and then back. I had to back paddle with each swell, so that I did not get pushed into the rocks. I counted each swell, thinking that after the 3rd or 4th swell I could back paddle out. But the swells kept on coming and each successive swell was bigger than the last. Adrenaline was coursing through my body. I was scared and realized I had screwed up and got caught in the jaws of the beast. I could only wonder what was going through the minds of my fellow paddles as they waited helpless outside. I knew I had to remain calm in order to get out of this one and keep my kayak steady until the swells subsided. Eventually the swells attenuated enough for me to back paddle out of the crevice.
Later Rob and I discussed the situation. I would have been better off to back paddle in, so that I could forward paddle out of there. Still would have been dangerous though.
Not far from Heater Point, We explored through a rock walled cove and found a large cave entrance on a small pocket beach.
At a rock shore just before the Beach at Heater Point, We noticed 2 Peregrine Falcons high up perched in a tree growing from a rocky spire. The Peregrine Falcons squawked at us persistently.
We arrived at the beach just south of Heater Point. There was small dumping surf to negotiate. I was preoccupied then I noticed Leslie was out of her kayak as her kayak got tumbled in the surf. Once we were on shore we checked to make sure Leslie was OK. She is a tough girl and assured us she was fine, but her middle finger on her left hand was hurting. Leslie sucked it up and dismissed any pain. Liza took charge and examined Leslie’s finger. Liza suspected that it made have been fractured. It turned out her finger was broken. Liza taped Leslie’s finger and had her hold it up for a while to keep the swelling down.
Heater Point has a nice large sandy beach connect by trails. After we setup our tents and we got out of our paddling gear and into dry camp clothes, Leslie and Liza decided to stay back and relax. We marveled at how smooth the stones were on this beach.
Rob and I explored a trail that connected to another beach on the north side of Heater Point. There was supposed to be a lake somewhere inside the forest. Rob was hoping that the trail would lead us there, where he planned to take a swim. We took the trail to the other beach, but did not see a lake. At one point about half way through our hike we thought we saw it through the brush and we were getting closer to it. On the way back we poked around where we thought the lake was. We found the lake, but it was difficult to access through the surrounding thicket of vegetation and fallen trees. Rob and I climbed up onto a large fallen tree to get a glimpse of the lake through the thick brush. There was no discernible shoreline as logs and vegetation strewn all around the lake.
After Rob and I returned back to camp, I decided to keep exploring. I excused myself and headed south down the beach to where we saw the Peregrine Falcons. I noticed indiscernible animal tracks in the loose sand that lead to a rocky mound, at the end of the beach. I scrambled up the rocks to the next cove. As I peered over the rocks and brush the Peregrine must have noticed me and made a ruckus. I don’t think it approved of my presence. After I took pictures of the falcon, I climbed down the other side of the rocks to the next beach below. I got closer to the falcon for a better camera shot, though the falcon continued to object.
I looked down and noticed the animal tracks. For some reason, I thought these could be tracks of a cougar. There would be plenty of rocky crevices for it to hide and ambush its prey. Just outside of the rocks was another large beach, similar to ours. I decided to turn back and explore this later.
When I returned back to the campsite Liza, Leslie and Rob were gathered by a log down on the beach. It was Rob’s turn to make desert and he had gotten started early. We figured whatever he had planned it was good. Rob had got a small fire going in a shallow pit, and then he covered the coals with rocks. He placed a cake pan filled with cake batter on the coals, and then covered the cake with aluminum foil. An hour later we had cake for desert. It was a pumpkin ginger cake and it was very tasty.
After dinner, Leslie, Rob and I went to explore down to where I was at earlier. The Peregrine Falcon was still there squawking whenever we appeared. We walked down the next beach. We admired the cliffs and tall stone spires that were on the other end of the beach. We saw a deer. I tried to photograph it but it was very skittish and ran away. It must have made the tracks I saw earlier.
At the far end of the beach we found another cave entrance and that same deer. The deer ran inside. We slowly followed wishing to check out the cave. The inside of the cave was large and cavernous. The cavern had an opening not far at the opposite end. We walked through and saw the deer again at the edge of the water outside of the cave. We stopped, I went to switch to my zoom lens, but by the time I was ready to take the picture it jumped into the water to swim away. We were concerned that maybe we scared into a dangerous situations. But, figured that the deer knew how to swim and negotiate around the rocks. We walked out through the other side of the cave and realized it was the one we saw earlier from our kayaks.
8/8/09, Saturday Back to Side Bay Beach and home.
Approximate distance paddled: 6 nautical miles.
We launched at 9:00 am. I looked out at the clouds strewn across the Brooks Peninsula. As we paddled we saw many more sea otters, birds, one Lions Mane jellyfish. Sunlight shined brightly through wispy clouds revealing crisp shades of greens and browns from the mountainous shoreline. The water was flat and calm. I felt like we were paddling through an ethereal world.
At 11:00 am we landed on a beach between the rocks. It was time to load up the kayaks, gear, change clothes and head home. It was truly an amazing trip with great friends.
Sonya Bailey
Added: September 29th, 2009
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Dalewood Motel, Port McNeill, BC
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