Heliotrope Ridge Trail, December, 3rd 2009
Beautiful clear blue skies were forecasted for the Tuesday Through Thursday. We had a two week run of wind and rain. I had to take advantage of the break in the weather. Also the avalanche danger forecast was low to moderate above 6000 ft. The morning temperature when I left the house was 26°F. Mountain forecast reported it was supposed to warm up to a high of 38°F. I am not sure it got much warmer on the hike. The trail runs up the north facing side of the ridge. So, it does not get any sun in the winter months.
I wanted to leave the house by 6:00 am to arrive and begin my hike / snowshoe at about 8:00 am. Day light is in short supply this time of year. But since I waited till the morning to pack my backpack with essential gear and supplies, I did not leave the house till after 7:30 am.
Though I drive a 4 wheel drive truck with big knobby tires and I had 2 sets of chains for the tires, I parked just before the snowline at mile marker 7. The snow was hard, compact and icy in many spots. I did not want to risk sliding of the narrow forest road or getting stuck just to make it another mile to the trail head parking area.
I began my hike at 9:50 am. 2 hours later than I wanted. I figured, depending on conditions, I may not make it to the top of Heliotrope Ridge. There was about 1 ½ to 2 feet of hard crusty snow on the forest road before the trail. I was surprised to see a Subaru and then another Subaru parked further up the road. I am not saying, "I am surprised to see Subaru cars up here". I am say I am surprised to see people up here in the remote wilderness on a weekday. I reached the trail head 45 minutes later at about 10:35 am. I signed the trail registry and began my hike up trail.
The path was still easy to follow. There were foot prints in the snow. I set of foot prints were as recent as today. I noticed from the registry that a couple of hikers signed in ahead of me today. Since the snow was hard crust, I was able to walk on top easily without my snowshoes, for much of the way.
Kulshan Creek was a little challenging to cross with a heavy pack. I had to jump to a patch of hard pack snow that lied in the middle of the icy water like an island. Then I jump to the other side. I slip would have fell into the frigid water.
By 12:30 pm I came to an open area that must have run between the climbers trail and Heliotrope creek. I should have pulled out my slope meter out of my pack to get the angle of the slope. Initially, the slope looked to be about 30° before getting steeper to about 40°. Mind you these are visual estimates. Next time I should I should use the slope meter. I looked up and wished I brought my skies for the ride down.
I took my pack off for a short break, ate a few homemade cookies, peed and got my snowshoes on for the ascent up. While I took my break my had got cold and numb. Once I got my pack on. I slipped my hands into my fleece gloves.
Part way up as I cleared the tree line, I could see a couple of people on the ridge. I think they saw me heading up, since one of them raised his trekking polls over his head in the form of an "X". I thought to myself, I hope they were not in trouble. I was getting winded hiking up. I was not sure if I had enough time to make it to the top of the ridge.
I originally had planned to turn around at 12:30 pm, but I decided to turn around at 1:00 pm instead. It would give me 3 hours to hike up the ridge. I use a 2/3rds rule to figure my return time. It is a general rule and will vary depending on terrain and other factors. I figured a 5 hour hike with being back at my truck by 3:15 pm. 
The slope got steeper as I trudged on above the tree line. Incredible views of the surrounding, mountains, ridges, glaciers and the Ominous Mt Baker revealed itself above the tree line. I was near the top of the ridge where I stopped, caught my breath, surveyed the mountainous landscape. I could see everything. I staring into the valley I came from and the mountainous world stretch out below me.
The 2 guys that were ahead of me were heading back down. We cross paths, greeted each other and shared enthusiastic comment of this amazing place on a beautiful day. They ask me if I was heading to the top of the ridge. I replied, "yes". They headed on their way down and I continued to plod on further to the ridge. I looked at my watch it was 12:58 pm. I pushed on a little further. It looked like I was nearing the top of Heliotrope Ridge, but I noticed that as I climbed further more of the ridge revealed itself. It was 1:02 pm I had awesome view from where I was at. I could see Marmot Ridge leading to Mt. Baker, so I was near the top of Heliotrope Ridge. Beyond Heliotrope ridge would be Coleman Glacier. So that would be as far as I can go anyways. I took more photos as my camera began malfunctioning from the cold. I looked around a bit more and decided to began my descent down.
I really noticed the steepness of the ridge as I descended down. I had to be careful that I did not trip and tumble uncontrollable down the mountain. Even worse, fall into the moraine just to my right. 10 minutes later I was swallowed up into the forest below.
I disrupted the tranquility of the forest as the crampon of my snowshoe crunched the crusty snow under my feet. I stopped and remove the snowshoes. Going back down the mountain was quick. I caught up to the two fellows that were ahead of me. They had stopped for a break and a beer. We talked for a bit. There names were Dominic and Will. They mentioned that on the ridge they came to a spot that sounded hollow when they walked on it. They decided at that point to turn around, definitely a wise decision. They wondered what it could have been. I surmised that the snow cover a rocky ledged. Later, I looked over my map of the area. I figure they were almost on the Coleman Glacier. Serious Danger there especially in the winter with the crevasses covered with cascade snow. 
We hike the rest of the way down together. I was ahead when I nearly slipped on an icy patch of trail. I was hiking to fast now. I may have started my two new friends. I amazed myself that I was thrown backwards by my heavy pack. I actually kept my balance as I slide forward a couple feet.
It was not much longer when we reached the trail head at about 2:30 pm. As we hiked back down the forest road we noticed a mini van, stuck in a ditch along side the road. The owner of the vehicle was not around. We would have helped. Hopefully they were able to get back to the main road and get help. Will and Dominic asked if it was my van. I am thinking no way I would dive a mini van above the snow line. I am too chicken to drive my 4 wheel truck up this stuff.
I was back at my truck at 2:45 pm. I made better time back than I calculated. There is not much day light. I rather get back sooner than much later. I was very. I wish I had time to head over to the North Fork Beer and Pizza Shine. But I have a business meeting to attend.
I want to thank my husband James for letting me go on this hike. We have been busy and there was little time for anything else. But he understood I needed to take atvange of this great weather window.
Sonya
Photo from Heliotrope Ridge October 10th 2006 hike.
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